Lisbon moves at two speeds. The day is for hills, light, and slow lunches. The night doesn't really start until 9pm, often closer to 10. Trying to book an early dinner in Lisbon means eating in an empty restaurant: the locals haven't sat down yet. Accept the rhythm and the city makes sense. The other thing to know is that Lisbon is small. You can walk from Bairro Alto to Alfama in twenty minutes if you don't stop to look at the tiles. The trams are touristy and the metro is fine, but neither does much work compared to your shoes. Pick a flat-ish neighbourhood to base yourself in (Chiado, Príncipe Real, Santos), and most of the city is within a thirty-minute walk. Atrium recommends Lisbon for the visitor who plans to walk it. Most of the picks below sit in Chiado, Príncipe Real, or Santos for that reason; you can move between dinners and bars without the metro. The one exception is Princesa, thirty minutes south on the Costa da Caparica, which is the beach afternoon worth one of the trip's days. Walk the rest.