Ibiza has two reputations. The clubs and the rest. The clubs are what gets written about. The rest is what people return for. The interior, the north coast, the agroturismos, the village squares, the salt flats, the south coast coves: most of the island operates at a pace that has nothing to do with the headlines. Two things to know. First, you need a car. Public transport is minimal and the best places sit on roads that do not appear in guidebooks. Second, the calendar matters more than the neighbourhood. June is one island; August is another. May and late September are when the locals return to their own restaurants. Atrium recommends the Ibiza that lives off the commercial axis. Petunia for Es Vedrà. Atzaró in the orange-tree interior. Hacienda Na Xamena, the island's first luxury hotel, still privately owned on the north coast. Sa Punta for the Ibizan kitchen that does both bullit de peix and a contemporary plate. Las Dalias on a Saturday for the hippie market that still has the artisans the rest of the island lost. Drive the interior. Skip the clubs.